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How to Use a Smith's Arkansas Knife Sharpener

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Put a few drops of sharpening oil across the stone before touching steel to the surface. This light fluid floats away tiny metal shavings so the natural rock pores never clog up. Once the surface is wet, hold the blade at a steady angle and push it forward from heel to tip, just like slicing a thin sheet off the top. Making an equal count of smooth passes on both sides is the secret to restoring a clean cutting edge without rounding the steel.

The exact tilt changes depending on the knife in hand. Pocket and hunting knives usually favor a twenty-degree slope, whereas delicate kitchen blades need a shallower fifteen-degree lean. A dull edge also requires starting on a coarser stone before moving to a fine polishing surface. Getting these basic adjustments right ensures every stroke sharpens the edge instead of wearing it down.

Do You Need Oil to Sharpen on an Arkansas Stone?

Natural Arkansas stones are made of novaculite, a dense quartz mineral found in natural rock formations. This stone has tiny pores that slowly shave away steel while refining an edge. Because the rock is porous, it requires lubrication before a knife blade touches the surface.

Using an Arkansas stone dry ruins its cutting performance. When you push steel across dry rock, microscopic metal dust shears off the blade and packs into the pores. This dirty gray paste of oil and shaved steel is known as swarf. When swarf fills the open pores without fluid to carry it away, the stone glazes over. The surface turns slick and shiny, losing the grit (roughness level of the stone) required to cut steel.

A quality honing solution (sharpening oil) solves this by suspending metal shavings. A few drops spread over the stone create a slick barrier that floats the swarf above the stone face. This keeps the abrasive peaks exposed so they cut clean steel with every stroke. You only need four to five drops spread across the stone before you begin.

Always choose a light, non-petroleum honing solution or a food-safe mineral oil. Never use motor oil or vegetable cooking oils. Motor oil is too thick and traps grit, while vegetable oils turn rancid and leave a sticky residue that clogs the rock. For safety, place your stone on a flat counter over a damp washcloth or rubber mat to stop it from sliding.

How Do You Find the Right Sharpening Angle?

The angle you hold between the blade and the stone determines how sharp the knife cuts and how long the edge lasts. Knife makers shape blades with a specific bevel (the angled cutting edge that tapers down to the sharp apex). Your goal on the stone is to match that factory bevel so you sharpen the apex rather than scratching the blade face.

Most folding knives and pocket blades built for EDC (everyday carry pocket knife) use rely on a sturdy 20-degree utility edge per side. A 20-degree bevel provides a tough wedge that handles wood carving and cutting rope without rolling. Kitchen knives often use a steeper 15-degree slicing edge per side for delicate prep. When working with sturdy German high-carbon steel knives, maintaining a consistent 20-degree angle ensures the edge holds up against heavy cutting boards without dulling prematurely.

To find a 20-degree angle by eye, rest the blade on the stone standing straight up at 90 degrees. Tilt the spine halfway down to find 45 degrees. Tilt it halfway down again to reach roughly 22.5 degrees. Drop the spine just a fraction further, and you are resting right at 20 degrees.

You can also use two standard coins to set your hand height. Place the blade flat on the stone and slide two pennies under the spine. Notice the gap, then remove the coins while holding that exact tilt. The real secret is consistency. Lock your wrist and guide the blade with your shoulder and elbow so the knife does not wobble.

How Do You Push the Blade Across the Stone?

Sharpening on a flat Arkansas stone requires an edge-leading stroke, which means pushing the sharp edge into the stone rather than dragging it backward. Pushing forward mimics slicing a paper-thin sliver off the surface of the stone. This motion cuts steel cleanly and prevents a heavy burr (the tiny rough ridge of metal along the edge) from folding over the blade.

Follow these practical steps to push the blade across the stone:

  1. Set the heel on the stone: Place the heel of the blade (the part of the edge closest to the handle) flat on the near end of the stone. Tilt the blade to your 20-degree angle, pointing the sharp edge away from your body.
  2. Position your hands: Hold the handle firmly with your dominant hand. Place two fingertips of your other hand flat against the blade face near the spine to steady the knife without putting fingers near the edge.
  3. Sweep diagonally forward: Push the blade forward along the stone while drawing it smoothly toward you in a single diagonal stroke so every section of the edge touches the rock.
  4. Follow the curved belly: When your stroke reaches the curved belly near the front of the blade, lift the knife handle slightly. Raising your hand keeps the curved edge flat against the stone at your steady 20-degree tilt.
  5. Lift off cleanly: Finish the stroke just as the tip reaches the far end of the stone. Lift the blade cleanly off the stone without letting the tip roll over the edge, which can round off the point.
  6. Maintain light pressure: Use only two to three pounds of downward force, roughly the weight of two medium apples. Heavy pressure gouges the stone and rolls the edge bevel.

When Should You Switch Sides and Polish the Edge?

A blade becomes sharp when both sides of the bevel meet in a clean, microscopic peak. Sharpening only one side leaves the edge uneven. You know it is time to switch sides when you feel a distinct burr (the microscopic wire edge or curved sliver of metal that forms on the opposite side during sharpening).

Follow these steps to balance both sides and polish the edge:

  1. Check for the burr: Make 10 to 15 smooth strokes on side one using a medium grit stone (a stone with a roughness level around 600 grit designed to reshape dull metal). Gently brush the pad of your thumb upward from the spine out across the unsharpened side of the blade. If you feel a rough, catching ridge from heel to tip, side one is finished. Never slide your thumb along the length of the blade.
  2. Sharpen the second side: Turn the blade over, set your 20-degree angle, and match the exact number of strokes on side two until that rough burr flips over to the first side.
  3. Step down your strokes: Reduce your stroke count to five passes per side, then three, two, and single alternating strokes to thin out the wire edge.
  4. Switch to a fine stone: Wipe away any gray slurry and switch to a fine Arkansas stone. This dense natural stone removes very little steel and focuses on polishing the edge to razor sharpness.
  5. Finish with feather-light passes: Put a fresh drop of honing solution on the fine stone. Make six to eight light alternating passes using only the weight of the blade to buff away grind marks.

How Do You Clean and Store an Arkansas Stone?

Natural novaculite stones can last a lifetime, but only if you remove metal shavings after each sharpening session. If you let dirty oil dry on the stone, steel particles settle deep into the pores and harden.

Follow this care checklist after you finish sharpening:

  • Wipe away the slurry: Use a clean shop rag or paper towel to wipe the dark gray swarf off the stone face before the oil dries.
  • Flush the pores: Add two fresh drops of honing solution to the stone. Rub the surface firmly with your thumb or a soft nylon brush to lift trapped metal dust, then wipe it clean again.
  • Wash and dry the knife: Wash the blade with warm water and soap to remove metal shavings and oil residue. Dry it immediately with a towel. This step is critical for high-carbon or tool steel, which is harder metal that stays sharp longer but requires dry wiping and light oiling to prevent rust spots.
  • Inspect for metal buildup: Check the stone under bright light. If you notice dark, shiny spots where metal has bonded to the surface, scrub the stone with warm water, dish soap, and a stiff brush until clean.
  • Store in a protective case: Place the stone in a wooden box or fabric storage pouch to keep shop dust off the oiled stone and protect the natural rock from chipping if bumped.

What Should You Look for in a Sharpening Setup?

Putting together a dependable manual sharpening kit makes blade care straightforward and repeatable. When choosing natural stones, focus on grit progression, stone size, and base stability.

A complete sharpening setup should include at least two grit stages. A medium grit natural stone cuts fast enough to reshape a dull cutting edge without removing excess steel. A fine finishing stone provides the smooth surface required to knock off the burr and polish the bevel. For delicate slicing blades, such as high-carbon Japanese chef knife sets that require steep angles, a fine finishing stone creates a refined cutting edge that glides through ingredients without tearing.

Match stone size to the knives you own. A compact four-inch pocket stone slips easily into a pack for field touch-ups on smaller blades. For kitchen knives and larger fixed blades, a bench stone provides the stroke length needed to sharpen the entire edge in one smooth motion. Make sure the stone sits in a molded holder or has non-slip rubber feet to keep it locked in place.

Select a honing solution made specifically for sharpening stones rather than general household oils. Purpose-made honing solutions include rust inhibitors and stone cleaning agents that float steel particles cleanly and wash away with warm water.

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Last update on 2026-10-01 / Affiliate links / Images, Product Titles, and Product Highlights from Amazon Product Advertising API

FAQs

Can You Use Water Instead of Honing Oil on an Arkansas Stone?

Water can work as a temporary lubricant on an Arkansas stone, but it evaporates quickly and does not float heavy steel particles as effectively as oil. Once an Arkansas stone absorbs oil, you cannot switch back to water because residual oil repels water from the surface pores. Using a dedicated non-petroleum honing solution keeps the stone cutting cleanly and prevents metal shavings from clogging the rock.

Why Does My Knife Feel Duller After Sharpening?

A blade usually feels duller after sharpening because your hand angle shifted during the stroke, rounding off the delicate apex. Another common cause is failing to remove the burr from the edge before you finish. If you do not make light alternating strokes to remove that thin wire edge, the metal folds over during your first cut and leaves the blade feeling blunt.

How Many Strokes Does It Take to Sharpen a Dull Blade?

Sharpening a blade with normal everyday dullness usually takes 10 to 20 strokes per side on a medium stone to form a burr, followed by 5 to 10 light strokes on a fine stone. Extremely dull blades or harder tool steels may require extra passes to reshape the bevel. The key is working until you feel a burr across the entire edge rather than counting an exact number of strokes.

Can an Arkansas Stone Fix a Heavily Chipped Knife Edge?

Natural Arkansas stones are made for edge maintenance, honing, and polishing rather than heavy steel removal. Because natural novaculite cuts steel slowly and gently, grinding out a deep nick on an Arkansas stone requires hours of tedious work. For deep chips or broken tips, reshape the blade on a coarse diamond stone before finishing the bevel on your Arkansas stone.

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James Patterson
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James Patterson
Hi, I'm James, a home appliance nerd hailing from New York City. Armed with my trusty Electrical Engineering degree from MIT and 10 years of experience, I've been helping people navigate the wild world of smart home tech.