How to Use a Chef's Choice Knife Sharpener Step by Step
Most home cooks assume that sharpening a dull blade requires firm downward pressure. In reality, pushing down actually gouges the steel, so the proper technique is to rest the knife flat against the guide and pull it smoothly using only blade weight. The internal motor and angled wheels do all the cutting work for you as you alternate evenly between the left and right slots.
Which slot you start with depends on the original shape of your knife. Slender Japanese blades use a sharper fifteen-degree angle, while standard Western kitchen knives need a wider twenty-degree bevel (the angled cutting edge). Serrated bread knives skip the rough slots entirely to protect their teeth, and a blade with everyday wear only needs the fine polishing stage. Matching the right slot to your knife takes just a moment once you know what to look for.
Matching Your Blade Angle to the Right Sharpener Slots
Every knife edge has a bevel, which is the angled cutting surface that tapers down to the sharp edge. Kitchen knives generally fall into two categories: traditional 20-degree edges and finer 15-degree edges. Understanding which angle your knife uses prevents you from grinding away good steel or dulling the blade by working in the wrong slot.
Traditional American and European cutlery, such as heavy-duty French chef knives or classic German high-carbon steel knife sets, typically use a sturdy 20-degree edge per side. This wider angle gives the blade extra support behind the cutting edge, which makes it great for splitting dense squash, chopping through fibrous root vegetables, and handling heavy kitchen tasks without chipping. If your sharpener has slots marked specifically for 20-degree blades, these Western kitchen knives belong in those slots.
Asian cutlery, including Santoku blades and delicate high-carbon Japanese chef knives, traditionally features a steep 15-degree slicing edge per side. A 15-degree angle is thinner and cuts through soft meats, fish, and crisp vegetables with noticeably less resistance. If you own an angle-select machine with separate 15-degree and 20-degree stages, always run your Japanese blades through the 15-degree slots to preserve that factory profile.
Some multi-stage sharpeners are designed to convert traditional 20-degree knives into ultra-sharp 15-degree knives. While this conversion creates a razor-sharp slicing tool, it requires removing extra metal during your initial session to reshape the bevel. Once you convert a knife to 15 degrees, you must continue maintaining it in the 15-degree slots. If you want to keep the thick, chip-resistant factory edge on a heavy carving or chopping knife, stick with its original 20-degree profile.
Step-by-Step Guide to Pulling Your Knife Through the Sharpener
Using an electric knife sharpener correctly comes down to steady movement, light contact, and letting the abrasive wheels do the work. Follow these numbered steps in order for clean, repeatable results every time.
-
Wash and thoroughly dry the knife before you begin.
Reason: Food grease, dried juices, and water can gum up the internal diamond abrasive wheels, causing uneven sharpening and attracting metal grit that scratches the face of your blade. -
Set the sharpener on a flat, dry counter and turn the power switch on.
Reason: Starting the motor before inserting the blade prevents the rotating discs from catching on the steel edge or gouging the metal upon contact. -
Rest the blade flat against the angle guide near the heel.
Reason: The heel is the back part of the blade closest to the handle. Resting the side of the blade directly against the guide sets the exact sharpening angle automatically so you do not have to guess. -
Pull the blade smoothly toward you using only light blade weight.
Reason: Pulling steadily at a rate of roughly two to four seconds for an eight-inch blade prevents heat buildup and stops the abrasive wheels from grinding hollow pockets into the cutting edge. -
Lift the knife handle slightly as you reach the curved tip.
Reason: Following the upward sweep of the knife profile keeps the curved section in full contact with the grinding disc, which sharpens the tip evenly rather than flattening it. -
Alternate single strokes between the left and right slots of the stage.
Reason: Sharpening both sides of the blade equally creates a balanced, centered cutting bevel rather than pushing the edge off toward one side. -
Advance through the finer sharpening and polishing stages.
Reason: Moving from coarse diamond grinding wheels to the final stropping stage, which uses a flexible polishing disc, removes rough grinding scratches and creates a smooth, razor-sharp edge. -
Wipe the finished blade with a clean kitchen towel before slicing food.
Reason: Sharpening sheds tiny particles of metal dust that cling to the steel and must be wiped away before the knife touches cutting boards or ingredients.
How to Check for a Burr Before Moving to the Next Stage
The biggest secret to successful sharpening is knowing when to stop using the coarse stage and move to the finer slots. You know it is time to move forward when you feel a burr. A burr is the microscopic wire edge or curved sliver of metal that forms on the opposite side of the blade as the abrasive disc grinds away dull steel. If you do not create a burr, you have not sharpened all the way to the very edge of the knife.
Here is how to check for a burr safely without cutting your fingers:
- Turn off the sharpener switch so the motor stops running completely.
- Rest the knife flat on a cutting board or hold it securely by the handle with the cutting edge pointing away from your body.
- Place the pad of your thumb on the side of the blade, well above the cutting edge.
- Slowly slide your thumb downward across the bevel, slipping off the edge into empty air. Never run your finger along the length of the edge like a violin bow.
- Feel for a faint, rough wire edge or rough sandpaper-like catch along the side opposite to your last pull.
- Check the entire length of the blade, from the heel all the way out to the tip.
If you feel this rough ridge across the full length of the edge, you have successfully ground through the dull metal. Make one stroke through the matching opposite slot to center the edge, and you are ready to advance to the next stage. If the edge still feels completely smooth, return the knife to the coarse slot for one or two more alternating pairs of pulls.
Sharpening Serrated Blades Without Damaging the Teeth
Serrated bread knives and tomato knives require a completely different approach than standard straight-edge chef knives. Serrated blades feature scalloped teeth ground into one side of the blade. If you place a serrated knife into a coarse diamond sharpening slot, the rotating grinding wheel will chew off the tips of the teeth, flatten the scalloped curves, and permanently ruin the blade.
To sharpen a serrated knife safely, use only the final stage of your sharpener. In multi-stage units, this final stage contains a flexible stropping disc or ultra-fine polishing hone. These flexible discs act like a leather strop, conforming to the curved dips between the teeth without grinding away significant amounts of metal.
Place the serrated blade into the final stage slots just as you would a straight-edge knife. Pull the blade through slowly, taking roughly three to four seconds per pull. Make two to three alternating pulls between the left and right slots. The flexible discs will polish each individual tooth, remove bent metal burrs from the flat back side, and restore crisp cutting bite without altering the factory profile of the serrations.
Common Sharpening Mistakes That Damage Blade Steel
Electric sharpeners make knife maintenance fast, but using improper technique can shorten the lifespan of your cutlery. Steering clear of a few basic errors keeps your blades straight, true, and sharp for decades.
The most common mistake is pushing down hard into the slots. Many home cooks assume that pressing firmly sharpens the knife faster. In reality, modern diamond abrasives cut aggressively on their own. Pushing down flexes the blade, strips the diamond coating from the internal wheels, and cuts uneven dips into the steel. Use only light downward pressure, roughly equal to the natural resting weight of the knife itself.
Another frequent error is stopping or hesitating mid-stroke. If you slow down or pause while pulling the blade through, the rotating wheel keeps spinning against that exact spot on the steel. In less than two seconds, a spinning diamond wheel can grind a noticeable notch into the blade line. Always start your pulling motion the instant the steel touches the spinning wheel, and keep your pull speed completely uniform from handle to tip.
Watch out for the bolster on heavy German-style knives. The bolster is the thick metal band between the handle and the blade that balances the knife. If you shove a thick bolster all the way into the sharpening slot, the metal collar will strike the rotating disc or catch on the plastic guide. Over time, this creates a hollow dip right in front of the bolster that prevents the heel of the knife from making flat contact with a cutting board. Stop your stroke just before the bolster enters the slot.
Finally, avoid twisting the knife handle or letting the blade tilt away from the angle guides. The plastic guides are designed to hold the knife at a precise bevel. If you twist your wrist, you change the sharpening angle midway through the stroke, creating a scratched, wavy edge instead of a crisp cutting bevel.
What to Look for in a Home Knife Sharpener
Choosing the right sharpener depends on the specific styles of cutlery you keep in your kitchen drawers. Different knives require different sharpening geometries, so matching your sharpener to your collection ensures every blade gets the proper care.
If your kitchen contains a mix of Western chef knives and Japanese Santoku knives, look for a multi-stage system that offers selectable angles. Units with separate guides for 15-degree and 20-degree bevels let you maintain both styles without forcing you to re-profile your heavy German blades or blunt the delicate edges of your Asian cutlery.
Abrasive quality is another critical feature to check. Diamond abrasives are the hardest sharpening surfaces available and stay flat over years of use without losing their cutting ability. Sharpeners that pair coarse diamond grinding wheels for initial reshaping with flexible stropping discs for final polishing deliver smooth, polished cutting edges that hold their sharpness significantly longer than edges shaped by coarse stones alone.
You should also verify whether the sharpener accommodates serrated knives. A versatile kitchen machine should include a non-abrasive or ultra-fine finishing stage capable of polishing scalloped edges. A unit with reliable angle guides, diamond abrasives, and a dedicated stropping stage provides a complete sharpening setup that handles everything from paring knives to bread knives.
Chef’sChoice 15XV EdgeSelect Professional Electric Knife Sharpener with 100-Percent Diamond
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- BrandChef's Choice
- TAR Score9.2
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Chef'sChoice Professional Electric Knife Sharpeners FlexHone/Strop With 100-Percent Diamond Abrasives
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- BrandChef's Choice
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- BrandChef's Choice
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- BrandNoumii
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Last update on 2026-10-01 / Affiliate links / Images, Product Titles, and Product Highlights from Amazon Product Advertising API
FAQs
How many pulls through each slot are needed to sharpen a dull knife?
A knife with normal everyday dullness usually needs about three to five pairs of alternating pulls in the shaping stage, followed by two to three pairs in the polishing stage. If a blade is severely blunt or has small nicks, it may require ten or more alternating pulls in the coarse slot to establish a fresh burr. Once the burr forms, keep pulls to a minimum to preserve blade metal.
Can I sharpen scissors or shears in a kitchen knife sharpener?
Standard electric knife sharpeners should not be used on scissors or kitchen shears. Scissors use a single flat bevel ground at a steep angle, typically around 75 to 80 degrees, which does not fit inside standard 15-degree or 20-degree knife slots. Forcing scissors into a kitchen sharpener will ruin the scissor edges and damage the plastic alignment guides.
How do I clean metal dust out of the sharpener?
Most electric sharpeners feature a small clean-out cover or magnetic metal shavings collector on the bottom of the housing. Turn off and unplug the unit, turn it upside down over a trash can, and open the clean-out latch once a year. Empty the collected dark metal dust, wipe the cover with a dry paper towel, and snap it securely back into place.
Why does my knife feel sharp right after sharpening but dull quickly during dinner prep?
This usually happens when you skip the final stropping stage and leave a rough, jagged burr on the edge of the blade. That microscopic wire edge feels deceptively sharp to the touch, but it is extremely weak and folds over flat on the cutting board after making just a few cuts. Spending adequate time in the final polishing stage gently sweeps away the burr and leaves a solid, stable cutting apex.





























