How to Unlock and Close a Leatherman Knife Safely
A blade that refuses to fold shut is nothing to worry about, because the tool is simply locked to protect your hands. To close it safely, press the flat metal lock tab away from the base of the blade and swing the steel into the handle. Once that small metal latch shifts aside, the hinge moves freely again.
Where to press depends on your specific tool. Many knives use a flexible metal strip tucked inside the handle slot, while others rely on a sliding lever or a rocker button along the outer spine. Built-up pocket lint or dried dirt can also wedge behind the spring and make the hinge feel completely frozen. Here is how to find the lock on your model and guide the blade shut without putting your fingers in harm's way.
Spotting the Lock Style on Your Multitool
If you are holding an open Leatherman and the blade will not budge, the tool is doing its job. Leatherman builds its folding knives with mechanical locks so the blade cannot swing shut on your knuckles while you cut through thick cardboard, rope, or zip ties. When someone uses a multitool for the first time, they often expect it to fold like an old-fashioned pocketknife that closes under simple hand pressure. Pushing on the sharp blade without releasing the safety mechanism will only hurt your fingers or strain the hinge.
Before you push on any metal piece, take five seconds to identify which locking design your tool uses. Leatherman has produced dozens of models over the years, and they use four main styles of blade locks depending on whether the knife opens from the outside of the frame or the inside of the handles.
The first and most common style is a liner lock, which is a flexible metal bar inside the handle slot that snaps behind the open blade to stop it from closing on your fingers. You can see this spring bar resting down in the cutout channel right against the pivot. On popular pocket models, this flat bar often has small ridges for grip and a tiny stamped image of an open padlock.
The second style is a frame lock, which is a cutout piece of the outer metal handle itself. Instead of having a separate spring tucked inside a handle channel, the outer handle casing is slit and bent slightly inward. When the knife swings fully open, this thick handle piece springs directly behind the blade tang, which is the blunt bottom corner of the blade. Knives built for lightweight carry often feature this rugged setup.
The third style is a back lock or spine rocker lever. On heavy-duty tools where the blades and saw fold out from the inside, you will see a grooved metal lever on the outer spine of the handle. This sprung lever rocks on a small pin. When the knife opens, a tooth on the lever drops into a deep square notch cut into the back of the blade.
The fourth style is a cam lock, which is a sliding thumb tab on the handle side near the pivot pin. Leatherman introduced this mechanism on its Free series tools. It uses magnetic resistance to hold tools closed and a sliding outer thumb switch to clear the internal stop pin. Once you know which of these four locks you are holding, folding the blade away takes just two simple motions.
Unlocking Liner Locks and Frame Locks Step by Step
Liner locks and frame locks work on the exact same mechanical principle. When the blade swings completely open, the tensioned metal strip snaps to the side and lodges against the flat base of the blade tang. Because the metal strip blocks the blade from swinging backward, pushing down on the spine of the knife only jams the steel tighter against the lock. To fold the blade, you have to push that metal spring aside so the base of the blade has room to rotate.
- Orient the tool safely: Hold the multitool in your dominant hand with the sharp edge of the blade facing away from your palm. Keep your fingers wrapped securely around the back spine of the handle, well away from the open trench where the blade will fold.
- Locate the lock tab: Look directly into the opening where the blade pivots out of the handle. You will see the end of the flexible metal bar resting firmly against the flat rear corner of the blade. Look for small serrations or an open padlock icon stamped into the metal.
- Press the lock bar outward: Place the flat pad of your thumb against the serrated edge of the lock bar. Push the metal bar toward the outer wall of the handle casing. You only need to push it about an eighth of an inch, just far enough to clear the corner of the blade tang.
- Start the fold with your other hand: While holding the lock bar against the handle wall, place your free index finger on the dull, unsharpened spine of the blade. Nudge the blade downward a few degrees into the handle. Once the blade starts rotating past the lock point, the corner of the blade will hold the lock open on its own.
- Clear your thumb and close the knife: Remove your thumb completely from the inner handle cavity. Never leave your thumb in the slot while folding the knife. Swing the blade smoothly the rest of the way down until it seats securely inside the frame with a soft click.
If you are closing a frame lock, the process is identical, but your thumb pushes on the cut-out section of the outer handle rather than an internal liner. Frame locks tend to feel stiffer than internal liner bars because the handle metal is thicker. Maintain firm, steady thumb pressure toward the outside of the tool while nudging the blade closed.
Releasing Back Locks and Free-Series Side Levers
If your Leatherman does not have a flexible bar inside the handle opening, it relies on a spine lock or a side switch. Heavy-duty tools with internal implements keep blades locked rock-solid so they never slip during rough outdoor tasks. These releases are located on the outside edges of the frame rather than inside the blade slot.
Follow these steps to close a traditional back lock or spine rocker lever:
- Find the release lever: Look along the narrow spine of the handle. You will find a textured metal lever or rocker switch near the pivot area or the middle of the tool. On many tools, this lever has an arrow or ribbed grooves for thumb traction.
- Depress the rocker switch: Place your thumb firmly on the textured lever and press it down toward the body of the tool. This downward pressure pivots the internal tooth up and out of the locking notch on the blade tang.
- Nudge the blade shut: Keep steady downward pressure on the rocker switch. Use your other hand to push gently on the dull spine of the knife, folding it toward the handle channel.
- Release the lever to finish: Once the blade rotates past the locking notch, lift your thumb off the lever. Guide the blade the rest of the way into the handle until it rests flat.
Free-series pocket tools use an entirely different mechanism that is designed for easy one-handed operation. These models feature a cam lock operated by a sliding button on the side of the handle.
- Find the side slider: Locate the grooved thumb switch positioned on the flat side of the handle casing, right next to the blade hinge pin.
- Pull the switch back: Place your thumb on the switch and slide it back toward the tail of the handle. This shifts the internal cam away from the blade pivot.
- Swing the blade closed: With the switch held back, push the back of the blade toward the handle slot. Internal magnets will take over as the blade nears the handle, pulling it closed with a quiet, secure snap.
Safe Finger Placement and Freeing a Stuck Lock
Most cuts from folding tools happen during closing, not during cutting. When people struggle with an unfamiliar lock, they often place their thumb directly inside the handle trench to push the lock bar, then pull the blade shut with their other fingers. If your thumb stays in that channel, the sharp cutting edge swings down like a guillotine right onto your thumb pad. Keeping your fingers intact requires strict hand placement every single time you fold a blade.
- Thumb flat on the release: Keep the pad of your thumb pressed against the lock tab without hooking your fingertip into the hollow handle trench.
- Contact the dull spine only: Never pull on the cutting edge or wrap your fingers across the blade belly. Apply closing pressure strictly to the flat, unsharpened top spine of the steel.
- Clear the path early: Push the lock release just long enough to tilt the blade a few degrees, then immediately move all fingers to the outside of the handle frame before finishing the swing.
- Use a stable work surface: If your hands are wet, greasy, or cold, set the handle flat on a wooden bench or table so you can control the movement without slipping.
Sometimes a lock refuses to budge even when you push on the correct release. In most cases, pocket lint, sand, dried drywall dust, or sticky sap has wedged itself behind the spring. Unlike the fixed kitchen blades featured in German high-carbon steel premium knife block sets that have a continuous piece of steel through the handle and no moving parts, folding tools rely on flexible mechanical locks that require regular care.
If your lock feels frozen, never strike the back of the blade with a hard object or pry the lock bar with a screwdriver. Prying can bend the tempered steel spring, permanently ruining the lock geometry and making the knife unsafe to carry. Instead, take a can of compressed air and blow out the narrow gap behind the locking bar. If sticky gunk remains, soak the pivot area in warm water with a few drops of mild liquid dish soap, work the lock gently, and rinse it clean.
Dry the tool completely with a clean towel, then apply a single drop of light mineral oil or multipurpose household lubricant directly to the pivot pin and the contact face of the lock bar. Much like keeping kitchen cutlery protected in a magnetic knife block and knife set combo to keep the edges secure, maintaining clean mechanical clearances on a pocket tool ensures smooth, reliable action.
If the lock bar has pushed all the way across the tang and wedged tightly against the opposite handle wall, the lock has suffered severe mechanical wear. Leatherman covers its tools with a 25-year manufacturer warranty. If the lock is jammed tight due to bent steel or broken internal springs, stop forcing the mechanism and send the tool to the factory for authorized repair.
FAQs
Why does my Leatherman knife lock open in the first place?
Multitool blades lock open to prevent accidental closing during tough cutting tasks. If you put downward or twisting pressure on a non-locking pocketknife, the blade can fold back and slice your fingers. The mechanical lock ensures the blade behaves like a solid, fixed piece of steel until you deliberately disengage the mechanism.
Can I loosen the pivot screw if the lock is too hard to press?
Loosening the pivot screw is generally not recommended because it introduces blade play and ruins lock alignment. If the lock feels overly stiff, the cause is usually built-up pocket lint, old grease, or metal friction. Cleaning the pivot with warm, soapy water and applying a single drop of light oil will usually restore smooth operation without altering factory screw tension.
How do I unlock older Leatherman models that do not have a release button?
Some classic Leatherman multitools lock their internal implements using an older lift-to-unlock system. On these models, you unlock an extended blade by partially opening a secondary tool right next to it, which lifts the tension spring off the primary blade tang. Once the tension lifts, you fold the blade halfway closed, push the secondary tool back down, and fold the blade the rest of the way shut.





















